Mold and mildew are nuisances every architect wants to avoid. We understand that completely. They can grow wherever sufficient moisture, spores, optimal temperatures and nutrients are present. The key factor is moisture, which can be controlled by adhering to sound construction practices. To make matters worse, condensation can be a source of moisture and a potential contributor to mildew growth. Condensation may occur when water vapor permeates through the wall, cools and condenses on the first cold surface it encounters.
If you choose, and this is where it can become more work, you can embed plastic conduit into the ICF wall while constructing. If you do it this way, I agree with Todd, because you are going to incur a higher cost of labor. But you gain square footage of living area because their is not any studded wall cavity. I would not recommend running plumbing this way though. This method will kill you on costs if you are not doing it yourself, as you may need to have the electrician working with the ICF installers.
Also, instead of conventional insulation, do superinsulation and cut your heating bill by 80%- you can save most of the cost of the insulation by installing a TINY (and much less expensive) heating system, and pay $300 a year to heat instead of $3000 (most of your heating would come from waste heat inside the building). A savings of $2400/year would pay for about $48,000 greater expense in construction.
The lap siding was installed directly to the 24 studs with no sheathing. Can I use the foam board cut to fit between the studs for insulation and then re-install the lap siding directly to the studs I could also use the spray foam (Great Stuff comes to mind) to seal the gaps between the foam and the studs. I would assume a layer of Tyvek house wrap should also be installed before the siding is replaced.
So would thick xps work well with the areas that are above ground as well Is this stuff a fire hazard if not covered with drywall I was hoping to leave the above ground walls open in the unfinished area of the basement for easier insect and mold inspection.
I am in a similar situation where the rooms above garage become freezing cold. Adding another layer of drywall over foamboard, would mean taking out the existing garage opener, garage door railing and everything. Thaen there would be a problem of how to secure the second layer of drywall through the foamboard. That seems to be a lot of work. Is there a better, easier and affordable way to insulate the celing are there any fire retardant rigid foam in the market that we can just nail/glue/fasten to the ceilings to add extra insulation
I think you can successfully install foam board between the studs and seal the panels all around with spray foam like Great Stuff. In that area you want to be sure you install a thickness that provides the minimum R value required by code.
To remedy this during the summer our contractor replaced our fiberglass / vapor barrier insulation with 2 inch thick (at least) of XPS sheets in between metal studs and then spray foamed the gaps around the ceiling and elsewhere.
I just found your web site and am impressed. I have a dream of building my own semi passive solar super insulated home. My wife has early stage Limb girdle MD so our current two story no longer meets our needs. I am hoping to orient the house 60 feet east west and 40 feet North south. I want a continous insolated sunspace along the entire south side with heat rising into the attic like and then desending along the north wall into the basement with tube openings into the south semi isolated sunspace. The air with then continue the same cycle. I figured I would use earth tubes to prewarm the air before it enters into the heat exchanger. I want to put insulation between the concrete. With this kind of sipcrete wall I thought I would put up 4 inch studs on the northwall and use the empty space before the gypsum as the ductwork. This sort of makes it a sort of high thermal mass semi-envelope home. Does this make sense. I would like to make a raft with 4 inches of board insulation below both the basement and the footings. The walls are solar-crete models 7 inches of foam between 2 1/2 inch inside and outside concrete shell.
We are currently building a new home in Indiana. It will be a 2 story home with a basement with the first floor 2200 sqft, 2nd floor- 2000 sqft. and the finished basement with 1500 sqft. They have so far poured a 10 inch thick foundation and placed tar waterproofing on the outside with some sort of non-rigid insulation on the outside. They plan on pouring 4 inch concrete over visqueen vapor barrier and granular fill after the plumbing stuff. We have a 400 sq ft sunken by 4 inches -section designed for the theater that Im concerned about especially with moisture since immediately upon digging-there was water pooling but eventually desipated but occasionally is there anywhere from 2-4 inches. We added a sump pump in that section. My question to you is what would you recommend for us to do My builder is reluctant to use the 2 inch rigid xps below the concrete saying that he is worried that over time it would not be structurally sound with the 2nd floor weight. and claims that he has not had any condensation issues in his basements. What you would do if you lived here in Indiana and roughly how much would your recommendation cost Our climate is not as harsh as Canada and I obviously am trying to be cost effective. He plans on insulating the walls very well upto R13 with a space between studs and the wall as a thermal break. And if you advocate insulating below the concrete does that mean above the footers too or level with footers Thank you so much for your time and GOD BLESS YOU!
What a fabulous website! I have just purchased a small (962 sf) single level home in central VA. Built in 1933, it appears to have no insulation, anywhere. There is sheet plywood nailed over lath and plaster interior wall which I plan to pull off. What would you recommend for under the drywall Money is an issue. Outside is aluminum siding over the original wood which will need to be dealt with later.. Gable roof had tin which was shingled, this is being replaced with a metal roof next week. I would appreciate any ideas you could give me on the insulation. Thanks
You might want to look at the foil faced foam board it has a higher R-value of R-7 per inch instead of R-5 per inch for the tuff-R or formular. Tuff-R is stronger because it is used for sheathing, but it is the same type of foam board.
I should also mention that if you vent a roof you must provide an air barrier at some point to keep outside air from entering the roof space and cutting rigid foam insulation to fit between uneven rafters isn't a very tight barrier so there would need to be a membrane on the underside of the rafters or elsewhere. It is quite possible for air leaks to short-circuit the installation and substantially reduce its effectiveness.
Only where 'closed cell foams' are used can roof assembly ventilation spaces be avoided, or where SIPs (structural insulated panels) are used which have been approved for installation without ventilation by their listing.
Also, aluminum faced insulation (ie tuff-r or rolls of plastic bubble wrap coated on both sides with aluminum) has the remarkable ability to reflect back certain wavelengths of radiant (i think it is) heat (3 types of heat - convection, radiant and ). Only true IF there is a mimimum 3/4 inch air space against warm side of aluminum coating. This explains printing on the tuff-R board about \"extra R value if airspace\"
Found this thread by google'n :)I have a split level house. One upstairs bed room wall backs up to the middle level rooms attic, about 4' up on that wall. Its a small room so i decided to open up into that attic and make a loft for my sons bed. 2 of the walls in the loft will need insulation, one will only be about 2' hight and the other 4.5' down to 2'.Can i use dow tuff-r board on the back side of the 2x4's of these 2 walls then stick some r15 on the inside of the walls I would seal the dow board from the inside to eliminate any air leaks.As far as the ceiling goes which would now be the roof, i guess i should just use the staple on vents and stick r19 inbetween the 2x6'sIm just tying to keep it as warm and as cold as i can in both the winter and summer months!Thanks Chris
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I am curious as to where you are going to use it. It is ok to use outside of the fish tanks. You would be wise to cover it not only to stop the sun from degrading it but it can brake apart from nicks and bumps over time.
Adding insulation absorbs sound that is trying to pass through the airin the cavity, but has no effect on structural noise. In the staggeredwall, with less structural noise, insulation has a distinct positiveeffect at middle and high frequencies, but in the conventional wall,where structure-borne noise is strong, the effect is far less.
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I've been battling heat in my shop since I moved into my current home eight years ago. I live in SoCal, and my ga